What I’m Drinking… Eve’s Cidery Sparkling Bittersweet Cider, Ithaca, NY
Posted by Neil Brody Miller on October 21, 2009
Okay, I admit upfront that this is a shameless rip-off of the always interesting “What We Drank” entries published weekly by the New York Cork Report (formerly LennDevours.com). It’s not just that the New York Cork Report has become the 800 lb. gorilla among New York wine blogs (i.e., imitation is the highest form of flattery). It’s also that I am way, way overdue for a blog entry of my own. I have been trying unsuccessfully for the past several weeks to organize a multi-wine, multiple judge Vinodome wine competition (you’d think an offer to pour several really good wines for free for friends would be more than enough to get folks motivated, but noooo…). And finally, I drank something so unusual and so freaking delicious that I just had to post an entry.
I’ve always loved hard ciders. As much as I enjoy wine, there is something about a clean, crisp, refreshing, and yes, food friendly, hard cider that I find almost irresistible. Several of my favorite pubs usually have one or two hard ciders on tap, which is typically where the beverage really shines (just try a freshly poured pint of Woodchuck at The Blue Tusk versus the relatively uninteresting bottled version to see what I mean). But recently, I came across several different bottlings of hard ciders by Eve’s Cidery at Red Feet Wine Market in Ithaca, NY. After talking about the different ciders with MP and Empar, I purchased a bottle of Eve’s sparkling Bittersweet Cider.
Wow. The color is a striking amber gold, much deeper than I expected, with a nice thick mousse and small perlage. Very intense fresh apple bouquet, not just the aromas of the apple flesh, but the skin and the slightly astringent core. Big nose. The intensity carries over to the palate, which marries mostly tart green apple flavors with some residual sweetness, noticeably high acidity, and dry but not overly dry tannins. The tannins, as well as the relatively full body, were both surprises. This cider has structure, which is not to say that it is age-worthy (although with wines, residual sugar, high acidity and tannins usually translate into age-worthiness). The sweetness is really a background note, as the tart apple flavors and acidity more than balance the bit of residual sugar. The finish is long, complex, and lingering.
The flavors are more complex and compelling than I can fully convey. Eve’s Cidery states on their website that they use 20 different varieties of French, English, and American apples in this sparkling cider, and since these are bittersweet varieties, which Eve’s Cidery describes as very different from eating apples, some of the flavors are simply unfamiliar to me. The best I can do is to describe these flavors as I would a wine, there is a slightly peppery quality, although it is different from and more exotic than white or black pepper, maybe closer to pink peppercorn or Sichuan pepper. There are also equally complex, complimentary spice notes, something in the range of freshly ground cardamon or coriander.
Altogether, this is a much more serious cider than I was expecting, with a refreshing, palate-cleansing acidity that makes this a great food-wine pairing. I think it would be outstanding with hard cheeses, pork dishes prepared with apples or dried fruits, a simple roast chicken, foie gras, or a complete Thanksgiving dinner. At $14.00 it is well worth the price, and at 10% alcohol it offers an excellent low alcohol alternative to the many excellent Rieslings and Pinot Grises produced by Finger Lakes wineries. This is a noteworthy, truly artisanal beverage produced by an obviously dedicated, local cidermaker, and you can taste the passion and expertise in the glass. Highly Recommended.